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A must-see in Catania is the Fish Market 'A PISCARIA'

Article by: Avvento S.Angela, content creator of Free Tour Catania

If you come to Sicily, you should visit Catania. Catania is a big city east of Sicily, in the deep south of Italy.

If you're wondering, 'When is the best time to travel to Sicily?' know that the weather here is mostly warm and mild. But if you love the cold, July and August might be too hot.

One of Catania's most typical and folkloric places is the FISH MARKET. Known as 'A’ piscaria' by the locals.

If you're wondering what makes it so special and unique, try to imagine this:

An imaginary journey in the Fish Market

You're in Piazza Duomo, with 'U Liotru', the little elephant in lava stone, the symbol of Catania. Behind you, in front of you the Amenano Fountain, with its fresh bedsheet-like waterfall. You start walking, head towards it, pass by while admiring its grandeur in neoclassical style, and enter square Alonso di Benedetto, where a seemingly similar yet always different spectacle unfolds every morning.

Piazza Duomo whit U liotru
Piazza Duomo with U liotru
Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto
Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto

Life at the fish market

Early in the morning, or rather late at night, fishermen head out to the sea to catch the fish they will sell just a few hours later. Upon returning to port, they go to square Alonso di Benedetto, ready to begin the second part of their day: setting up their stalls to sell the fish and shouting those typical chants of the Catanese vendors.

Examples include 'U pisci cchiu friscu l'avemu cca, na stu mircatu' which translates to 'in this market, we have the freshest fish', or 'Su lei u voli tuttu, cci fazzu u scuntu', meaning 'If you buy the whole crate, I’ll give you a discount'.

Fishermen or fishmongers? What is the difference?

As you cross Piazza Alonso di Benedetto through the tunnel under Palazzo del Seminario dei Chierici, you reach Piazza Pardo, where the star of the show remains the fish, but this time in the hands of fishmongers. These vendors don’t go out to sea to catch fish but they buy it wholesale at the big fish market outside the city center, where today you can also find non-local fish.

Fisherman selling fish at a fish stand
Fisherman
fishmonger at his fish stand selling fish
Fishmonger

What variety of fish can you find?

One type of fish that can never be missing is anchovies ('i masculini' in dialect). They’re practically an obsession for the Catanese. Along with them, you can find swordfish, mullet, sea bream, tuna, octopus, shrimp, mussels, clams, and many other varieties of seafood.

Some of these fish are the main ingredients in typical sicilian dishes like swordfish rolls and beccafico-style anchovies.

The fish market doesn’t lack anything, not even frozen fish! The area dedicated to it is located in the tunnel mentioned, near Porta Carlo V, a gate which opens onto Piazza Pardo.

This gate opened in the medieval walls of Charles V from the XVI century, and the tunnel is carved under the Palazzo del Seminario dei Chierici.

Do you know why the fish market is located right there?

Besides the local people who bring their history and culture to this place, another important feature of the fish market is its location, which has undergone countless changes over the centuries. It wasn’t always like this.

Where Piazza Pardo stands today, there used to be the city walls by the sea. It was the 1669 eruption of Mount Etna, which destroyed several villages before reaching Catania, that, by spilling into the sea, pushed the coastline forward by several dozen meters. This changed the strategic importance of the defensive walls, parts of which were destroyed by the lava flow and later on by the big 1693 earthquake.

In the 1800s the long line of the marine arches was built, which starts right in front of Piazza Pardo, to connect the railway to the then-new main train station.

Later, in the 1930s the area was interested by expansion works of the port and the coast was further distanced. It is believed that the fish market began in its current location in the 1800s, because it had grown in size, and the choice of this spot was influenced by its proximity to the marina arches and to the underground River of Catania, the Amenano, almost entirely buried due to the 1669 eruption.

Porta Carlo V in the Catania City
Catania, Porta di Carlo V. Photo by Avvento S.Angela

Hungry? Here's what you can try at the Fish Market.

Here, besides buying fish to cook, you can also enjoy street food and small tastings: examples include raw oysters with lemon, artichokes, sun dried tomatoes, olives, sweet garlic, fresh or dried fruit.

Are you wondering, What?

Yes, at the fish market, there’s not only fish!

In front of the fish vendors, there are several stalls selling vegetables, fruit, dried fruits, cheese, meat, spices...

In a typical Sicilian market, another must-have item is nougat made from:

  • almonds
  • pistachios
  • hazelnuts
  • walnuts
  • mixed nuts

A special treat that distinguishes the Catania market is being able to see Omero skillfully preparing nougat right there at the market. Imagine being there, watching him noisily handle his 'cutiddazzi', large knives, compacting the nougat, and finally offering a still-warm sample to all those around.

food stand selling anchovies sandwiches
Sandwich with anchovies
Food stand selling nougat
Omero's nougat

Where to eat if you're really hungry

After diving into the fish market experience, you can continue enjoying the place by eating some delicious local food. You should definitely go to Scirocco, which is right there in Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto.

Scirocco is a place that mainly offers fish dishes, and it was the first to bring modern street food to the fish market. It was born from the dream of Marco, a Catanese man who, through hard work, managed to create a business that now collaborates daily with the fish market, his main supplier.

He was a pioneer who inspired the opening of many eateries right around the fish market.

Still not convinced? I’ll add that in 2024, Scirocco was awarded as the #1 street food spot in Italy!

If you don’t have the chance to visit the fish market in the morning to see it in full activity, we recommend going anyway to enjoy the atmosphere created by the many small eateries and restaurants and admire the hanging umbrellas to provide shade for the customers during the hottest hours.

Did you smell the fish?

I hope you enjoyed this imaginary journey and that I’ve piqued your curiosity.

If so, you might be interested in reading this article: 'Catania, the City under the Volcano'. And maybe you’d like to book a free tour, which, of course, includes a stop at the fish market, or even buy a food tour around the market, you can check our tours directly from our website or here on our Free Tou Catania FTC profile.

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